Tuesday, December 27, 2011

JE T'AIME PARIS - I LOVE PARIS

Although I had French in high school and some in college, I am not fluent or even conversant. Those classes were a long time ago. I was concerned about communicating with people. My game plan was to make every effort to speak French to the point where the person I was speaking to would realize that listening to me speak French was appauling sounds awful and that would force them to speak English. Plus who can resist my natural charm, right?

Now, it's very important to be respectful when you're in a country and you don't speak the language. Instead of assuming that people spoke English, I began every sentence with "Bonjour. Pardonen moi, si vous plait, je ne parle pas Francais". Which means "Good Day. Please, pardon me, I do not speak French". This was usually received with a smile or a shoulder shrug and the response "It's okay. I speak English." Occasionally, after I said "Bonjour" and before I could get the rest of my speech, the person would reply in English "Hello. How may I help you?".
You never sound more American as when you try to speak another language.

I arrived in Paris to a well marked airport full of military guards packing serious weapons - AK-47s or something equivalent. The woman at the information desk was really nice to me and that set the tone for my whole visit in Paris. With her help and Rick's directions in my subconscious, I found the machine to purchase the bus tickets from the airport to the Opera House, navigated the Metro (subway) from the Opera House to my neighborhood and found my hotel without incident. I felt proud of myself for that little accomplishment.

I arrived at the hotel and it was more than I had expected. Not fancy, definitely budget travel but clean, safe and friendly staff. In fact the staff were so friendly that I was initially a bit surprised. The location was just near the Military School and the Rue Cler neighborhood.

I went for a walk around 7:30pm looking for the Eiffel Tower and this what I found just 2 short blocks from my hotel. This picture doesn't really do it justice but you get the idea. This was thrilling. Thrilling as in goose pimples on your arms and a giddy, giggly reaction just at being so close to something so cool.




The Eiffel Tower is not black steel as I thought it's this beautiful copper color - sort of natural and earthy. Here's I like about Paris, when you are NOT at the big tourist attractions, and you're just walking around the neighborhoods, you don't feel like a tourist at all. You feel like a traveler or a maybe even a local. There might be one or two souvenir shops here and there but in general, it's just you, the locals, the shops, cafes, and the city.













There really is a mystique about Paris that I can't quite explain. The first day I took one of those hop-on-hop-off buses to get a basic idea of the area. Man the traffic there is crazy. There was one collision and countless near misses. It's not so much the number of cars on the road but they style of driving which I would call kamikaze. Here are a few pictures from the double-decker bus.





Paris is a city for lovers. When we refer to PDA - Public Display of Affection, one normally thinks of a kiss that lasts a bit longer than usual or some such thing but in Paris they take PDA to a whole other level. People walk hand in hand, arm in arm, hand in back pockets, girls sitting on boyfriends laps, couples kissing, face holding kissing, french kissing, pressing up against in each other kissing, full-on making out, wandering hands...you get the idea. Personally, I think it's sweet and kind of cute BUT if you are single it can be a bit much to take. There it is, in your face, every where you go. Of the 6 nights I was in Paris, I cried myself to sleep feeling lonely and forlorn 3 of those nights. AND I firmly believe that if there are other single people in Paris, which I find doubtful, they are at home crying into their pillows too! No doubt about it.

So, one afternoon I'm walking along, feeling a bit down in this romantic city and I decided to go back to the pastry shop I passed a feet back. By the way, there is no need or logical reason to resist any of the food temptations while in Paris. You will never find better pastry anywhere in the world. As I turned around, this was the view before me.



There it is, just sitting there as you please. Peeking out over the top of buildings. That was a very special moment. Not only did I know longer feel sorry for myself but I was reminded how simple it can be to change your mood and your perspective.

I have told you that I'm a museum nerd and there were several on my list. The Louvre obviously and see my page on the blog named Let Down at the Louvre. And the two most well known for the Impressionist collections: Musee de L'Orangerie and the Musee d'Orsay.

The Impressionist wing at the Musee D'Orsay was closed, the wing I wanted to see the most, typical! However, I did find a new interest. There was a iron work artist and architect named Hector Guilmard and he's famous for designing the Metro station entrances in Paris, seen here.  The Musee had a lot of other works from him that included doors, entrances, facades, furniture and other items.





My friend Leigh was supposed to met me in Paris, and after some degree of difficulty, we finally found each other. Who knew there were 3 hotels with the same name in Paris? It was such a joy to have somebody to spend the days with and especially in Paris. That really did make it more fun. We did some sightseeing, walking, some shopping, eating, walking, exploring and flirting with cute waiters and of course, walking. One evening we decided to stop at a cafe and have a glass of wine and a snack. As we were in France the snack how to be....CHEESE. Naturalement. That's French for "naturally". We sat outside - with a heater - at a cafe in Paris, drinking wine and eating bread & cheese. It was the best cheese I've ever had and we asked for more bread at least 3 times. We just couldn't get enough.

The line to buy a ticket to go up the Eiffel Tower was about a 3.5 hour wait. We decided that standing in line wasn't how we wanted to spend our time in Paris. The guy at reception in my hotel suggested that we go to the Montparnasse Tower and then we would not only see the city but also the Eiffel Tower from a taller vantage point. What a great idea.






This is the Rue Cler neighborhood, a favorite of Rick Steves. This street is lined with pastry, bread, cheese, butchers, cafes, produce stands, gifts and shops for just about everything. Zoom in to get a better look.




I spent 5 full days in Paris and it was completely satisfying. I was sad to leave but at the same time ready to move on to the next city. Paris is fun, fairly easy to navigate and in my experience, welcoming. I recommend going (after doing your Rick Steves' homework of course).




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