Sunday, January 1, 2012

CONFLICTED IN THE CINQUE TERRA

The Cinque Terra (pronounced CHINK-weh TAY-reh), a remote chunk of the Italian Riviera, refers to the 5 small towns - villages really - along the north west coast of Italy. Of the 5 villages I chose Vernazza as my home base. Above each village is a connecting hiking path. As you can imagine, this location is popular as a day trip from a nearby city  or as a one night stop over.

The journey from Nice to Vernazza was a torturous train travel day, tied in first place as a ghastly journey, similar to my journey from Bath to Moreton-In-Marsh in England. Nice to Vernazza required 5 connections. The train from Nice to Ventimilgia provided an astounding scenic views of the French Riviera but after that some of the trains were covered in graffiti and filled with questionable characters. For most of the connections I had first class reservations and they were new coaches, well appointed, with organized spaces. It was a long day and a patchwork of experiences.

Vernazza is a small village with one main street that is "pedestrians only" except for the utility golf-cart-like vehicle. The bright and colorful ancient buildings lean on each other like old friends. Each village is set into the cliffs (except for one) with a water port.

I feel conflicted about this area. Let's start with the positives. No need for me to use words, you can see for yourself from these photographs.








When I first arrived I thought to myself "this is where I would like to go for a honeymoon or some romantic getaway" but within a few hours or so, I changed my mind. It is just way too crowded and loud.

Even if you couldn't hear the train arriving at the station you become acutely aware of the fact, as no less than 50 - 60 German seniors in hiking gear and walking sticks tramp down the one and only main street of Vernazza 4 times an hour. Try as you might to ignore the throngs of tourists it's a difficult and fruitless endeavor. Even on the boat that links the villages, you are packed in like sardines.

These hidden jewels have been discovered. Did I mention that the room costs per night are as high if not higher than staying in a big city like Milan?  I feel conflicted about this area but I will say this: in the looks department - A+.

As a side note: I did see Harrison Ford, or maybe his look-a-like, in Monterosso.

View of Vernazza from the cemetery on the hill above.




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